Cycling Heaven...a week on the bike in Mallorca

It's late September, just after 10am and heading towards 27c.  The sky is bright blue with a few clouds dotted here and there  We are coasting along a road seemingly empty of traffic aside from our bikes.  Fields move past us on both sides, vines and olive trees in perfectly straight lines disappear off into the distance.  The faint sound of clanging bells can just be heard over the whirr of our chains as grazing sheep in the nearby fields move around to find the best food.

We can only be in one place...Mallorca.  Cycling heaven.

I'm here for a week with a fellow cycling mate.  This is our 4th consecutive year here, riding some of the best roads you can cycle on, in pretty much perfect weather.  We have come, as on our previous trips, with Jet2 holidays, bringing our own bikes. My mate has his own bike box whereas I hire one for the trip (more on that later).

We always stay in Puerto Pollenca at the Puerto Azul Suite Hotel (Click here to see the hotel). A cracking hotel, with great facilities for cyclists (secure bike parking, pumps, workbenches) and a great location for exploring the amazing routes and roads of Mallorca and for a post ride shandy or Poke Bowl (Best Poke in Pollenca !).  We stay on a half board basis, giving us as much breakfast and dinner as we need - key when cycling every day. The staff are so friendly and always recognise us and welcome us back.  When you aren't on the bike, the Hotel is a few hundred metres from the sea front and famous 'pine walk' of Peurto Pollenca where you can stroll and admire the stunning views and where you are never far from restaurants, bars and shops.

Travelling with your own bike comes with its own demands.  We travel via a package holiday so that requires adding your bikes at the time of booking and paying the extra charges for that (with Jet2 around £90 per bike for a round trip).  Jet2 then provide a 'sports transfer' which ensures that your pre-booked bike fits on the transfer that is taking you to the hotel (approx £100 extra for both our bikes round trip).  Previously this used to include a priority drop off at our hotel but I think this has stopped from this year.  Also, last year, our bikes went on a separate transfer to the coach we had to the hotel - somewhat worrying at the time but it was fine.  This year it was back to being on the same coach that took us to the hotel.  So, arriving at Stansted, you check the bike and any luggage in as usual.  Your bike box is weighed (max 32kg).  I think there are dimension limits for bike boxes but no one has ever queried any boxes I've used.  Once checked in you then take your bike box to over sized luggage for it to be x-rayed.  With bikes, you have to wait for confirmation that your bike and box has passed through x-ray ok.  This time I was particularly nervous as I was taking a bike with Di2 (battery powered gear change) and had decided to leave the battery in the bike.  There is conflicting information about batteries in bikes but from my research the battery in Di2 has a 'watt hour' rating around 3.7 so well below the 100 deemed safe.  All was ok, my bike went through without any issue.

Arriving at the hotel, I unpacked my bike to be greeted with a rear derralieur hanging off and dangling under the saddle.  Despite my best attempts to get it fixed back to the bike, I had no choice but to seek out a local bike shop for help.  And this is where on Mallorca you realise how well set up it is for cyclists.  The nearest bike shop to the hotel is 200m away.  About an hour later I was back up and running and ready to ride, thanks to Radek at Sventy Triathlon (See Radek's shop here)

More on that bike box I mentioned earlier.  I decided this year to hire the best box I could from the bike shop I use.  This was the 'shock box'.  A large hard shell bike box, designed so in theory you only have to remove your pedals, wheels and saddle, while the rest of the bike stays intact.  But, despite this 'top of the range' box, I still experienced damage to my bike.  I should add that this is the first issue I have had in the 4 years of taking my own bike abroad.  Previously I've used the 'bike box Alan' and think these are a better designed box than the one I hired.  In my view, the shock box just seems to be a very large box, where the Bike Box Alan seems to have been designed with a purpose.  No science or expertise here....Just a view.

And this is possibly the one conundrum you consider on such a trip. Do I take my own bike, or do I hire one?  I love riding my own bike.  It costs me around £200 or so to get it to Mallorca. But, you have the logistics of collecting the box from the shop, partly dismantling your bike and making sure it is packed safely in the box...and then the anxiety of whether you encounter any damage or breakages along the way...and I guess hoping that it arrives at the same airport you land at.  In contrast, to hire a really nice bike with a great spec, will cost you about 300 Euro for a  week.  I think next year I might hire.

So, all that nonsense aside, what about the riding.  After all that is what we came for.

Our first ride typically is out to Formentor, the stunning lighthouse on the Eastern side of the Island.  Its a relatively short ride at around 24 miles but still includes around 2700ft of elevation gain.  This is a stunning route along the Ma-2210, through the pine forests.  If you are there in September you have the benefit that the road is closed to private vehicles (between May and October) so you only have to contend with the tourist busses that run to and from the lighthouse.  They come in two's so you know when you've seen one, there is another right behind.  That aside you have this beautiful road to yourself with just the goats wandering into the road so be careful ! On arrival at the lighthouse there is a fantastic cafe to grab a coffee and a slice of cake and just drink in the amazing views on offer.

View from the Cafe at Formentor

Our second ride was our biggest and another well known and popular route with cyclists.  Its a big day on the bike but the rewards are more than worth it.  The route takes us from Andratx on the western side of the Island, back to Porte Pollenca.  We use Mallorca Cycle Shuttle to take us and our bikes from Puerto Pollenca to Andratx and we ride back.  The shuttle cost 76 Euro for the two of us.  Pick up in Puerto Pollenca is 07:15 and you can book in advance from the UK before you travel, or wait until you get there.  Just be aware the shuttle doesn't run every day so check your dates and when you want to ride (Check out Cycle shuttle here).  These guys also offer a bike/rider breakdown/recovery service when you are on the Island so this is something to consider if you want the added peace of mind that would bring.

So what about the route.  Quite possibly one of the loveliest rides I've done.  The roads are so nice, the views are spectacular as you carve your way through the Sierra de Tramuntana mountain range.  This isn't a flat route at all so you are generally working your way up hill but are frequently rewarded with sweeping downhill blasts with views out over the bluest of seas.  On warm days you will be grateful of the shade provided by the trees as you pick your way around perfectly smooth hair-pinned roads surrounded by stunning hills and majestic views. We are riding on a Saturday and I'm amazed how light the road traffic is.  You are likely to see more bikes and goats than cars !

Roads like this all the way from Andratx to Pollenca

There are plenty of Cafe stops and restaurants along the way.  This really is cycling heaven.  You don't even need a Garmin in most cases to make your way back...as long as the sea is on your left, you are heading the right way.  A convenient lunch stop is in Soller, a beautiful historic town almost about half way along the ride.  It can be very busy at times but is worth a stop.  As I alluded to before this is a big day in the saddle.  You'll cover around 80 miles and in the region of 7700ft of elevation gain, including climbing Puig Major, the highest point on the Island.  It'll take 14km of climbing to reach the top (if you start at the bottom from Soller) but the views are spectacular once you do.  If you are feeling brave, on the run back into Peurto Pollenca you have the opportunity to add Sa Calobra onto the ride...I've never had the desire to do it, let alone the energy or legs.  The ride back into Puerto Pollenca is amazing including what I think is one of the best descents on the island, Col de Femenia.  About 8km of well sited wide sweeping smooth roads on which you can maintain some great speed as you enjoy this lovely run back into Puerto Pollenca and that shandy you've promised yourself at Tolo's !  Tolo's itself is worth the stop.  Its a hugely popular stop for cyclists on the promenade in Peurto Pollenaca.  Bradley Wiggins has donated loads of memorabilia including bikes, making this a 'must see' on your trip to Mallorca (Check out Tolos here)

One of Wiggo's bikes on display in Tolos

Looking out from the top of Puig Major

Given our advancing years, the following day is a recovery ride.  A flat roll into Alcudia for coffee and watching the world go by.  Even this short ride (around 18 miles) is so enjoyable as you ride along the coast, watching kite surfers skim along the water and seemingly fly at times as they perform gracious turns to keep the wind on their side.  A great ride to just keep the legs turning and hopefully allow further rides in the coming days.  Alcudia is a lovely place to visit with a walled old town.

For our last two rides, we tried out different routes and explored some new roads we hadn't ridden before.  The first of which was a short(ish) 42 mile loop climbing up Coll de sa Batalla.  The route out toward the Batalla is a lovely rolling route through quiet 'lanes' and you'll always see plenty of lovely views and scenery along the way.  The Coll de sa Batalla itself is a lovely steady climb of about 10k with classic hairpin bends as you climb up to the summit.  It is as fairly gentle climb averaging around 5% or so but you will encounter some short bursts of about 9% near the top.  Once you have reached the top you can stop at the famous Repsol garage which must be one of the most well known cycling stops on the island.  Here you can grab a coffee and cake and sit and chat to other cyclists and watch the goats roam about and cause havoc with the traffic.  Once suitably refreshed we descended back into Puerto Pollenca via the Col de Femenia again. This is a lovely shorter loop but still covers around 2700ft of elevation gain.  This route can easily be run in reverse from Puerto Pollenca but instead climbing Col de Femenia first and descending Sa Batalla.  Whichever way you choose to ride this route you have the option to stop at the lovely 13th Century Monestary in Lluc, also a great place to grab a coffee on your ride and sit within the grounds of this charming historical site.

The Repsol Garage at Batalla

The beauty of staying in Puerto Pollenca or Alcudia is the abundance of other cyclists you'll find in your hotel.  We'd previously been chatting to a group at our Hotel that we'd recognised from previous years and they asked if we'd ridden to see the old Velodrome at Sineu.  We hadn't, but it sounded like a lovely loop to try and for our last ride it would be nice to explore somewhere we'd not visited before.  So using the wonders of modern technology I googled 'routes to Sineu' and before long had downloaded a route from 'ride with GPS' and synced it to my Garmin.  Ready to roll the following morning.  And what a lovely ride it was.  Out through the flat (ish) roads toward Campanet, Sa Pobla, then south toward Llubi before arriving at Sineu.  What a beautiful place.  We found the town square and pulled in for lunch before heading off for a look around the local velodrome.  Rumour has it that the mayor was a cyclist, hence how Sineu came to have a velodrome.

Velodrome at Sineu

Apparently you can just take your bike onto the track and ride around it.  We chose not to and made do with a few photographs before heading back to Puerto Pollenca.  It was at this point that my Garmin decided to loose interest in the return route. But, this is where riding in Mallorca can be so stress-free should this happen.  Alcudia and Puerto Pollenca are well sign-posted so it is easy to pick up your route back.  Or as we did, went back to old-fashioned navigating and given that we had ridden south to Sineu, we just made sure, using the Garmin compass, we were tracking North.  We soon arrived back in Puerto Pollenca and treated ourselves to a shandy at Tolo's.  This loop covered around 54 miles but only 1600ft of elevation, so a fairly flat ride in comparison to other days.  The route was lovely, covering roads we hadn't ridden before and like so many of the rides here, traffic seems to be so light. A beautiful ride to round off another amazing week on the Island.

Before we were really ready, we were packing our bikes into their boxes ready for our return home.  This time I decided to remove my rear derralieur to ensure it wasn't broken or damaged on the return trip.  Whilst we might not be ready to come home, our legs are reminding us we've done enough riding for the week.  Will we be coming back? You bet....we've already booked to come back in May next year.  Mallorca is just made for cycling, the roads are lovely, the weather is typically lovely, there is a great community feel, from the bike shops that fix small issues and never want to take money, to the other cyclists you meet and chat to at your hotel or out on the road.  The scenery is stunning wherever you are.  There is always somewhere for coffee and food and you are always welcomed in wherever you stop for food or drink - even if you are pushing a bike and aren't dressed like the other guests.  One of the small shops we stopped at on one ride, in the middle of a tiny village, was selling inner tubes, energy drinks, energy chews and water bottles - a reminder, if one was needed, of how Mallorca supports its cycling economy.  

And best of all, you don't have to be a 'hard-core' cyclist to enjoy the riding here.  We see plenty of people who have hired a bike for the day and are enjoying the delights of the roads and scenery, clad in trainers, shorts and t-shirt and riding alongside us out to the Lighthouse at Formentor or climbing up Sa Batalla to the Repsol Garage.  There are plenty of e-bike options as well if you fancy letting battery power help you along the way.  It's pretty much impossible to get lost here on a bike and if you should struggle there are always fellow cyclists around to ask.

Mallorca really is cycling heaven and I hope to be riding here for many years to come.